Installing the Floyd Rose Tremolo

By Denny Rauen

American Lutherie
Circa 1986.

In the years since the advent of the Floyd Rose Tremolo, I have seen a variety of installation techniques, most utilizing an enlarged modified cavity similar to that found on Stratocasters. A careful study of this system's functional and physical characteristics lead me to design something more specific, minimizing the cavity area.

The procedure I will describe is for instruments with a fixed neck and no existing tremolo system. This is the most difficult procedure, so you can apply portions of of this technique to make less complicated installations.

It is necessary to calculate the neck angle in order to determine whether the instrument can be outfitted. Set a straightedge on the center of the fingerboard and allow it to extend to the bridge. If the gap between the straightedge and the body exceeds 11/16", the instrument should not be outfitted with a Floyd Rose.

I prefer installing the locking nut first. This requires more precision as it mounts in place of the existing nut. I use a router to achieve a clean, flush fit. Drill two holes 11/64" through the neck for the bolts which secure the locking nut. From the backside, countersink these holes using a 5/16" bit. Drill just deep enough to allow the bolts to thread securely into the locking nut. String alignment, height, and intonation are all at stake, so accuracy is crucial.

With locking nut installed, it is time to lay out and carve the bridge cavity. Dismantle the bridge, leaving only the two "E" saddles. These saddles set on their relative point of intonation.

Set the bridge on top of the guitar and measure for proper intonation, making a reference point. (Masking tape and ball point pen work well for mapping things out). Install "E" strings on the bridge. Pull the strings through the nut and pull them taught. Set the bridge at the reference point for intonation and line the strings up on the fingerboard. Trace the three holes where the trem block was bolted on and the stud slots (refer to figure 4 for stud slots)

Draw a connecting line through the center of holes traced. Use this as a center line to set up routing operations in figure 1 (ignore handle cavity) Rout completely through.

Flip the guitar over and map out the next routing operation. Refer to figure 2 using the freshly routed cavity for reference.

Rout the entire 2 3/8" x 4 3/4" cavity as in figure 2. Depth of the cavity is determined by the thickness of the body. (Refer to figure 3)

Area C of figure 3 is routed from the back of the guitar using a 1/2" bit with a 1/4" shank. The bit is dropped slowly into the cavity, routing inward until the shank rides against point D. Repeat this operation using a 3/4" bit with a 1/4" shank.

Area A and B of figure 3 are routed from the top side of the guitar using a 1/2" bit with a 1/4" shank. Use the same technique as in last step and repeat using a 3/4" bit with a 1/4" shank.

Drill centered stud markings (refer to figure 4) using a 3/16" brad point bit. Lightly countersink to avoid chipping. Install studs.

With the bridge in position, trace the area for the handle cavity (figure 1). Rout out the necessary area to clear the handle when in operation.

Install the string tree on the head stock and springs on the bridge. Tune the instrument to pitch. When fully tuned, the tree should float parallel with the body. Adjust spring claw to achieve this. Finally, play guitar for a short while to stretch the strings out before locking the nut.

Though there are less complicated systems to install, I find the Floyd Rose to be unmatched in it's ability to stay in tune and provide good sustain.